Infatuation Rules
Infatuation Rules
Photo: Ann H
The Orange Crush cocktail—a mix of OJ, orange vodka, triple sec and lemon-lime soda—may have started on Maryland's shores, but it's become a phenomenon throughout the state and beyond.
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Read More »“In the 2000s, you started to see it migrate, across the [Chesapeake] Bay and into the city,” says Brian McComas, whose three Ryleigh’s Oyster outposts have won “best of Baltimore” awards for their Crushes. This is a man who takes process seriously. Each of his restaurants is equipped with a pricey ice machine that spits out 2,500 pounds of “fish ice”—those slow-melting, buckshot-size pellets that keep your Blue Points chilly. He likes it better for Crushes than conventional cubes—it looks prettier and melts better. At his suburban location in Timonium, McComas installed a walk-in refrigerator dedicated solely to storing fresh fruit—loads of oranges, but also lemons, limes and grapefruits—for his menu’s eight other variations. The investments seem to have paid off: McComas says he sold 300,000 Crushes in the 2015 calendar year. What about this unassuming drink has made it such a hit? “It’s popular because it’s not a pretentious cocktail — it can be made by anyone, really,” says the mysterious taste-tester behind the Twitter @The_OrangeCrush. For the past three summers, the account’s anonymous owner, who lives in Ocean City, has embarked on a self-guided “Crush Tour,” patronizing 50-plus venues in a search for the best renditions. Consistency is key for this tough Crush customer, who takes into account everything from the quality of the citrus (“juice must be squeezed in your presence”) to drier variables like size and price. At this point, the Crush has moved beyond Maryland’s borders up toward the Jersey Shore and Long Island, but these out-of-state versions have not impressed the opinionated Tweeter. “Usually it gets messed up,” the intrepid drinker says. “Kind of like crabcakes get messed up anywhere else, too.” Back in Baltimore, places of all persuasions have cashed in on the Crush phenomenon, installing the hand-operated juicers—locals call them “crush machines”—and building out menus that riff on the base formula. (Grapefruit Crushes, which swap in Ruby Red vodka and that fruit’s fresh juice, now rival the original in popularity.) Bars don’t have to be beachy to get in on it. “It’s one of the few actual cocktails people who normally drink light beer and a shot will order,” says John Reusing, owner of Bad Decisions. A downmarket hangout with an upmarket liquor list, the Fell’s Point bar is a destination for geeks with esoteric tastes, but it’s also frequented by more conventional boozers. With the latter group, Reusing relies on the Crush as a gateway of sorts. “Once they trust you to make a good one, you can add a tweak here or there, and all of a sudden they are enjoying a complex cocktail,” says Reusing, who’s turned skeptics on to spirits like Campari and Aperol this way.
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Read More »But not every bar involved in Baltimore’s burgeoning cocktail scene is properly equipped to make the populist tipple, at least as it was originally conceived. Though Moscow Mules and Old-Fashioneds are among the most called-for drinks at the Federal Hill bar Bookmakers, beverage director Ryan Sparks also receives a fair amount of requests for Crushes, which he handles in a couple different ways. “If someone orders something, I’m going, to the best of my ability, make that drink happen,” says Sparks. Using St. George Spirits’ orange vodka, Pierre Ferrand Curaçao and fresh (but not crushed to order) orange juice, he can put together a solid high-end Crush approximation—but he’s also fond of steering customers toward house drinks that he’s deemed its spiritual sisters. Recently, Sparks has pitched customers the Painkiller riff that his coworker Briana Savage makes with Jägermeister, fresh pineapple and orange juices, coconut cream and nutmeg; Sparks has also put together a spicy-sweet Crush-esque rendition with green chili-infused vodka, Ancho Reyes, watermelon and lime. That places like Bookmakers are so willing to bend to accommodate a drink that isn’t in their creative wheelhouse is a heartening sign of the post-pretense flexibility of the modern cocktail bar, but it also speaks to the ubiquity of the Orange Crush in the very particular state that birthed it. “We like things that start here,” says Ryleigh’s owner McComas. “When it’s ours, it’s ours.”
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